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Tuesday, April 20, 2004 -
It's ironic that the three lines which best describe my life for the past year were first heard in a hot mineral water spa bath at the foot of Macchu Picchu, the single place on earth that I felt like I most belonged.

Que voy hacer. je ne sais pas. | I can see little, I don't know.
Que voy hacer, je ne sais plus. | I can see little, I don't know much at all.
Que voy hacer, je suis perdu. | I can see little, I am lost.
-Manu Chao, "Me Gustas Tu"

How tragic is that? I have this sanctuary, this place where I feel comfortable, I know what I want, I know how to decide about who I am, where I want to go... And then I come down off the mountain and hear this song at Aguas Calientes. The melody is tragic and haunting; it bellows out of the speakers so carelessly, and it knows where I will be three years later. And ten years later. And forty years later. And I didn't understand it then.

I know I will find my way; I know I'll make my choices, and will feel right again. But whenever I start to lose it, I'll always go back to where I knew everything, and there will always be that haunting melody whistling to me, and there will always be the poolside bar with the kids dancing and smiling. This is the place I write stories about. Not the mountain, not the incense and tobacco overlooking Mamma Pacca. But down in the valley, with the people and the dull stones that got in between your toes and the salt water and the blaring speakers. I'm not sure which place, my confidence or my doubt, that I relate to more these days, but I know that my doubt makes a better story.




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